|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||
|
This
is an easy one to forget. Even though these studs are inside the valve
cover here, sealant needs to be applied between the head & washers
or oil will run down the studs to the outside
of the engine and leak all over.
You can also see the new pushrod tubes and red seals running between the head and block. Before fitting the heads we tried to install the "Cool Tin" air shrouds under the |
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||||||
| cylinders. They replace the center tin piece that fits under the cylinders, causing cooling air to "wrap around" the cylinders more before exiting. The cool tins were standard on the type 3 (Square Back, Fast Back, Notch Back, Type 3 Ghia) engines. We couldn't get ours to fit on right. It was clear that they would quickly loosen and rattle around in there. Patience was running low at this point, so after about 20 minutes of messing with them, they were hurled through the air propelled by derogatory comments, profanities, and suggestions of where EMPI (they were a part of that original parts order) could stick them. It didn't look like they would cause that much of a change in air flow anyway, and with the cooling issue really being with the heads rather than cylinders, we stopped worrying about it. | ||||||||||||||||||||||
![]() |
Tracy
torques the heads and the last major part is done!
But all is not yet quiet on the Eastern Front... |
|||||||||||||||||||||
|
We
also found that there was too much front-and-back motion in the crank
(crankshaft
endplay). So we ordered a kit of various sized shims and
used a special crankshaft endplay tool & a feeler gauge to dial
it in.
|
![]() |
|||||||||||||||||||||
|
We
want our advertisers to work for you!
Click here to learn how we choose them and to let us know how they're doing. |
||||||||||||||||||||||